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Residential Spring Well Design
(Go directly to sketch of Spring
Design)
Three sections of the Department of Environmental Services provide assistance
to citizens with privately owned spring problems. These sections are the
DES's Laboratory Services Unit, the Water Supply Engineering Bureau and
the New Hampshire Water Well Board. Their addresses and telephone numbers
appear at the end of this document.
Though the definition of a "spring" varies widely, most authorities
would describe a spring as a dug well in which the static (no pumped) water
level rises above the top of the general ground level. For this reason
many spring features are similar to those for dug wells. Dug well construction
is discussed in fact sheet WD-WSEB-1-4. For information
concerning the proper abandonment of springs, see the DES fact sheet WD-WSEB-1-7.
GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS
State Regulations: A person or firm in the business of constructing
any type of well must be licensed by the NH Water Well Board. The Board
requires the submission of a "well completion report" describing the spring's
design, construction, soil conditions encountered and the yield.
There are statewide design criteria rules for all well construction
and
placement. These rules (We 602.03), which apply to springs,
were originally adopted by the Board in 1983 and revised in 1997. The rules
of the Water Well Board are numbered We 100-900. There are no state requirements
concerning minimum water quality or quantity for privately
owned wells.
Finally RSA 477:4-c requires, when selling a home with an on-site
water system, disclosure of the water system's location, malfunctions,
date of installation, date of the most recent water test and whether or
not the seller has experienced a problem such as an unsatisfactory water
test.
Local Regulations: Some towns may have local permit requirements
relative to the placement, construction, water quantity or quality for
private spring water sources. Please contact your local health officer
or code enforcement officer for particulars.
EVALUATING A NEW WATER SYSTEM
There are several items to consider when building a water system. These are described below.
Determining How Much Water You Use
A typical household requires approximately 5 gallons per minute (gpm)
to meet modest domestic water needs. Factors to be considered when determining
a family's demand on a water system include the number of water uses, their
flow rates, how many of these uses could occur simultaneously, and for
what duration.
Determining How Much Source Yield You Need
What minimum spring yield will satisfy a family's water needs is more
difficult to determine. As little as 2-3 gpm could be tolerated if there
is adequate water system storage. A low yield spring (i.e. 1-3 gpm) may
be acceptable if one makes use of water stored in the spring casing above
the outlet pipe or in large basement storage tank(s). This storage may
not be available when the water table drops or the natural overflow ceases
all together in the summer or fall. Storage below the outlet within the
casing may allow installation of a pump if the duration of pumping will
be short. The typical 2-1/2 foot diameter concrete spring well tile has
a storage volume of approximately 35 gallons per foot of water depth. Spring
overflow capacity often varies substantially. The time to determine a spring's
yield is late summer when the groundwater levels, and thus the spring's
natural recharge, are at their lowest level for the year.
Large non-pressurized storage tank(s) installed in the basement can
serve this same function of accumulating water during periods of non-use.
However, a pump will be necessary to pressurize this stored water. Taste
and odor caused by stagnant water also need to be considered.
The NHDES has published a document entitled "Well Yield, How Much Water
is Enough?" which is available for $2.00 through the Water Well Board.
The United States Department of Agriculture, Farmers Home Administration
Guidelines require a minimum well yield of 1200 gallons for a four-hour
period (an average rate of 5 gallons per minute) for home use.
Seasonal Changes in Well Yield
It should also be noted that a spring's yield may change with time.
This change can be a seasonal variation or long-term trend. Thus, one should
try to develop the maximum spring capacity when the spring is first installed.
Spring capacity generally however, can not be varied much by construction.
Springs can be thought of as a water source with spontaneous overflow
above the ambient ground level. Spring flow can be subject to drought limitation.
The best time to construct a spring is in the late summer or early fall
when low water tables facilitate construction. This will allow a deep spring
while minimizing muddy conditions and excavation cave-in. The outlet pipe
should be set as low as possible and also must be "laid to grade".
Water Quality Considerations
Spring wells experience few iron, manganese, and taste and odor conditions.
Spring wells generally do not experience arsenic, fluoride and radiological
problems that are seen in bedrock wells. Spring wells often experience
bacterial problems caused by poor configuration, poor construction materials,
vandalism, animal entry, and inadequate soil filtration.
Spring Placement and Protection
Since springs can take water from the highest water table, they can
be extremely sensitive to those land use activities that take place in
their immediate vicinity. It should also be noted, that for free flowing
springs, the recharge area can be at a different location than the immediate
area near the spring outlet point and also at a different elevation. Those
potential springs sites located within 50 feet of surface water should
not be developed.
Examples of chemical hazards to a spring include the application or
inadvertent spillage of fertilizer, pesticides, and inappropriate disposal
of crankcase oil, anti-freeze or solvents, or salt brine from water softeners.
Thus, the use of chemicals near by or uphill may negatively affect the
quality of the water in a spring.
Tests for many of these modern chemical contaminants involve complex
and costly laboratory procedures. Thus the best and least costly approach
to protecting the water quality of a spring is prevention of pollution
rather than treatment after the fact. Be careful with respect to the use
and disposal of chemicals near and upstream of a well.
The following protective distances are required or recommended when
choosing a location for a spring water supply for a private single family
home:
a) Surface water and drainage culverts should not pass within
25 feet of a spring; 50 feet + is recommended.
b) Animals should not be penned or tied within a minimum of 20 feet
of a spring. DES recommends a 75 foot separation.
c) Leach fields and septic tanks shall not be located within 75 feet
of a spring.
d) Springs should not be developed if they are within 50 feet of the
right-of-way line of roads. An even greater distance is preferred.
e) Springs shall not be developed if they are within 75 feet of adjacent
property boundary. (Se e RSA 485-A:30-b). If placement is made necessary
within 75 feet, a "standard release form" is required to be signed by the
spring owner and given to DES, the town health officer and the county registry
of deeds. Since most zoning codes require a 10 foot setback from adjoining
property lines, this distance is effectively 65 feet. See fact sheet WD-WSEB-21-4.
f) A spring should not be developed in locations subject to ANY flooding
unless the immediate 25 feet radius of the spring is built up above the
highest flood level possible.
Choosing The Water Supply Type You Will Purchase
Based on the considerations above, such as soil depth, water needs,
and existing pollution, etc., a well type can now be chosen. In many cases
there is relatively little choice since the choice of well types is largely
influenced by the type of soil and the water availability on the property.
As previously stated, this fact sheet pertains to spring type wells.
Contracting With a Spring Well Contractor
After determining that a spring is viable, a contractor will need to
be selected. The contractor will need guidance as to what concept will
govern the amount of work to be done. Normally, spring wells are installed
on a lump sum contract basis. The nature of the contract is between the
homeowner and the spring well contractor. DES suggests that the finished
configuration, dimensions, and finished elevation of the top and bottom
of the spring be discussed in advanced before work begins.
CONSTRUCTION OF NEW SPRINGS
In choosing which spring location to develop, it is important to ensure
that the spring has year round flow capacity. If the spring "goes dry"
during this period, either this location should be by-passed or that location
should be developed as a dug well with a pump. See the dug well fact sheet
WD-WSEB-1-4
and refer to this document for information relative to addressing the seasonal
overflow condition.
Excavation and Backfill
When beginning excavation, place different soil types in different
piles so that they may be replaced in the same sequences as removed. Upper
soil layers may be high in bacteria, organic material and readily soluble
iron and manganese. If these poor quality soils are placed below the water
table during backfilling, water quality problems may occur.
Try to prevent an accumulation of fine silt in the bottom of the excavation.
An accumulation of silt may form an impervious layer reducing the entry
of water into the completed excavation. When placing the crushed stone
base and spring well casing, break-up this fine sediment layer. At least
5 feet of soil backfill should cover the highest level of crushed stone,
if crushed stone is used.
Depth
In dug wells one usually excavates as deep as possible in order to
have the spring well as resistant to drought affects as possible. In spring
wells the excavation depth would be governed by the direction and origin
of the up swelling water. Greater depth remains important however, for
the water conveyance line to the home.
Stone Bed
A 1 foot + layer of 1-2 inch + crushed stone is often used at the bottom
of a spring. This allows convenient leveling of the spring well tile. Where
such stone is used, place multiple layers of progressively graded pea stone
(course to small) above the larger crushed stone to act as a transition
zone. This will prevent the backfill soil from settling into the crushed
stone in the future. DES does not recommend the use of straw, tar paper
and other degradable materials on top of crush stone as they may potentially
cause bacterial and taste problems and also disintegrate with time. Many
springs do not use crushed stone.
Pipe or Concrete Tile Sections
Pipe sections should be joined by bell and spigot or tongue and groove
connections. This is critical since frost heaves or pressure from uphill
soil, on a sloped site, will often displace tiles that are not locked into
one another. If pipe sections can slide sideways, soil will fall into the
spring casing. This in turn will cause settlement of the exterior backfill
soils leading eventually to settlement of the backfill which in turn creates
direct pathways for bacteria to enter the spring water table. Joints should
be oriented as shown in the diagram on the last page (i.e. outside tongue
facing down). Water should enter the spring at the bottom of the well casings.
Wire reinforced concrete is suggested for spring well casing rings and
the top cover. The joints between the highest two well casings should be
cement mortared or otherwise sealed to achieve a water tight condition.
Safe sealants are identified in DES fact sheet WD-WSEB-18-1.
Apron
To insure proper infiltration of surface water entering the spring
structure, an impervious apron of clay or fine silt should be placed on
the top of the mounded ground entirely around the spring. This apron should
be approximately 10 feet wide or as wide as the excavation that was made
to install the spring. The apron slope should be approximately 2 inches
per foot. A greater slope should be considered if substantial settlement
of the backfill is expected. Finally, the apron should be loamed and seeded
to assure a stable condition. Without sloped backfill, puddles of contaminated
water will form in contact with the spring casing and potentially leak
into the spring. This condition often results in bacterial contamination.
Cover
A center observation hole in the cover is not recommended. If
one exists on an existing spring, it should be sealed tightly to prevent
the leakage of bacterial contamination into the spring from above. If the
observation hole is subsequently opened, the seal must be remade. Acceptable
substances for sealing the observation hole include cement mortar and those
sealants listed in fact sheet WD-WSEB-18-1. The cover should overhang the
well and should ideally have a rain drip on the underside to prevent the
leakage of contamination, from the top of the cover, into the spring on
the underside of the cover.
The cover shape shown in the diagram is not regularly available in New
Hampshire. However, DES urges concrete precasters to adopt this shape in
order to solve the "underside" leakage problem. The underside of the cover
may not be totally flat. It is suggested that reference marks be placed
on the cover and vertical casing to ensure the same alignment each time
the cover is replaced. Cement mortar or sealants can then be placed on
the vertical sidewall to match cover irregularities on the underside. This
filler material however, tends to break off.
Another approach to minimize the space between the underside of the
cover and the top of the casing is to grind or chip the top edge of the
vertical casing to achieve a more precise fit with the under side of the
cover. Drag a pencil along the underside of the cover so that it indicates
the amount of grinding that needs to be done on the top edge of the casing.
Use a rotary saw or abrasive wheel and breathing protection. DES suggests
that the cover overhang the casing by at least 3 inches. This may help
keep the soils next to the well casing dry which in turn may reduce the
incidents of frost heaving (lifting) of the top casing.
If you feel there is need for an inspection port in the cover we recommend
the fabrication of a second lightweight, easily removable shield to fit
over the entire concrete cover. This shield should be lockable to prevent
vandalism and could be made from welded steel, aluminum, or sheet metal.
Plastic sheeting will deteriorate in sunlight and thus is not recommended.
We do not recommend the concept of using sealants to prevent leakage between
the large and small cover.
Overflow Pipe
Springs typically flow continuously. As a result excess water must
have an escape pathway to exit from the interior of the spring casing.
This pipe is called an "overflow" pipe and is shown in the sketch.
Key components of good overflow pipe design include:
- Resistant to vandalism.
- Have the elevation of the spring casing sufficiently high to achieve
an approximate 1 foot "free fall" of the excess water from the overflow
pipe to the ground.
- Use 1/2 inch or less hardware wire screen covered by typical household
screening at the end of the overflow pipe to prevent animal or insect entry
back into the spring.
- Place stones "riprap" below the overflow spill point to prevent soil
erosion.
The spring's "overflow" pipe is typically identified as the cause of most
bacterial contamination of springs. Typical problems include:
- The reverse flow of contaminated surface water back into
the spring during snow melt and heavy rain; or
- The use of the overflow pipe by small animals as a nesting area or
walkway.
The high end of the overflow pipe is typically placed approximately 12
inches or more down from the top edge of the spring casing. The "free fall"
discharge point should be approximately 3 or more feet away from the spring
casing. The overflow pipe should slope away from the spring. Use a single
piece of steel pipe approximately 2-3 inches in diameter supported at the
outer end.
Water Supply Line To The Home
Provide at least one foot of clearance between the beginning of the
pipe and the bottom of the spring. Provide a minimum of 5 feet of cover
over the water line to the home for frost protection. Before backfilling,
first take field measurements and then draw an accurate sketch of the precise
route of the water line from the spring to your home. Duplicate this sketch,
laminate and attach one copy of this sketch to your pressure tank or inlet
pipe. It is suggested that the pipe from the spring to the home be plastic.
Seal this line as it passes through the foundation to reduce radon entry
into the home. For old springs ensure that this piping is not made of lead.
AFTER CONSTRUCTION ACTIVITIES
Determining the Spring's Safe Yield
You should know the spring's safe yield. Once the spring construction
is completed, a flow measurement test can be performed. The safe yield
of a newly completed spring can be determined (and the spring flushed)
by allowing water to run continuously over a sustained period at both the
home and "excess" water coming out of the overflow pipe. Measure all flows
using say a 20 or 32 gallon trash cans. This evaluation should be done
in the late summer. If this water is initially muddy immediately after
construction or reconstruction, do not run the water through the home's
plumbing. For older springs, if the water is muddy after every rain storm
(or any time, for that matter) inspect the spring construction immediately.
A rapid change in the visual quality of the water are a clear sign that
the well is not safe for use.
Conduct at least an annual maintenance inspection of the spring. Remove
leaves, repair aging materials and replace damage cause by vandalism.
Disinfection - Chlorination
It is more difficult to disinfect springs since chlorine can not reach
into the soil. For new springs, it is most important to flush the spring
of silt, mud and debris before chlorinating or testing for bacteria. The
spring may have to be allowed to flow continuously for days (or weeks,
in a few cases) before this natural cleaning process is complete. Chlorine,
regardless of its concentration is NOT able to reach bacteria trapped inside
accumulations of mud. DES strongly advises that a bacterial test NOT be
taken until the spring has been thoroughly flushed.
The spring can be disinfected by adding liquid chlorine. One gallon
of 5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite (i.e. common store bleach, such as
Clorox) in 1,000 gallons of water will provide a good disinfecting solution
of 50 parts per million (ppm). The quantity of water inside the spring
well casing is shown below:
| Volume in Wells (Gallons) |
| Diameter |
1' |
2' |
3' |
4' |
| Water Depth |
|
|
|
|
| 2.5' |
15 |
60 |
130 |
230 |
| 5.0 |
30 |
120 |
260 |
460 |
| 10 |
60 |
240 |
520 |
930 |
| 20 |
120 |
270 |
1060 |
1880 |
The volume of water inside the spring casing does not include the volume
of water readily available in the crushed stone that normally surrounds
the base of the spring casing. As a rough rule of thumb, we suggest doubling
the calculated volume.
The procedure outlined below should be followed when disinfecting a
spring. Add the chlorine directly to the spring plus an extra amount for
the water in the crushed stone beyond the casing. Run each faucet in the
home until a chlorine smell is detectable. Close the faucets and allow
the chlorine to stay in the conveyance piping and the plumbing 12-24 hours.
If the spring is flowing, much of the chlorine will naturally wash out
through the overflow pipe. After 12-24 hours, flush chlorine from the plumbing
system. Do not flush into a septic system. Flush the chlorinated water
onto the ground but not into a stream or pond, as chlorine will injure
the environment.
Testing New Springs for Water Quality
After ALL the chlorine is flushed from the spring and plumbing system,
a sample can be taken for bacterial and chemical quality. Remember, all
chlorine must be flushed from the spring. Water quality samples with any
chlorine residual can NOT be tested for bacteria or nitrate/nitrite. The
presence of chlorine can be checked by using a chlorine test kit. Such
test kits are available from swimming pool supply stores or neighbors with
pools.
For persons desiring to use the DES laboratory, the Legislature has
established an $10 fee for a bacterial test and an $75 fee for the "standard
analysis" test. Only agency sampling containers can be used. The time to
process the standard samples is approximately three weeks during the summer
and two weeks otherwise. Different containers are required for sampling
radon gas, industrial solvents and hydrogen sulfide odor.
Sampling containers can be obtained from the Laboratory Services Unit.
See DES fact sheet WD-WSEB-2-1 for a discussion
of which water quality factors to test for in a private spring. We recommend
that a bacterial sample be taken on an annual basis for springs in view
of their shallow construction and nonprecise building materials.
INSPECTING EXISTING SPRINGS
When inspecting an existing spring, look for any defects or openings
in the casing which will allow foreign substances or small animals to enter
into the spring. Also look for points where surface run-off can enter inside
the spring casing directly from above.
Existing springs, especially those built of field-stone, are
frequently subject to construction deficiencies which allow surface run-off,
carrying bacteria and virus, to enter the spring filtered. To prevent this
problem, all joints between the field stone should be mortared and then
the entire outside surface of the spring should be uniformly coated with
cement mortar and wire so as to provide a smooth, one piece exterior surface.
This sealing should extend down below the ground surface to the extent
that conditions permit. Where concrete or vitrified clay tile is used,
the top two joints between pipe sections should be sealed if possible.
Typically in older wells, the backfill around the well casing has settled.
Once structural improvements to the casing are completed the backfill soil
should be mounded up around the outside of the spring as shown. This backfill
soil should be fine grained soils.
Wood covers are another common deficiency of older springs in that they
are susceptible to rotting. Further, water and debris can fall between
the wood slats and into the spring. We recommend a solid one-piece concrete
cover. The cover should extend beyond the well casing. The backfill next
to the spring casing should be mounded. To achieve reliable bacterial quality,
the spring construction MUST exclude ALL dust, dirt, surface
water, and animals. If the spring construction is not tight and if there
is not effective filtration of every drop of water entering the spring,
it is NOT a safe water supply source.
The "overflow" pipe of most springs can be a major passage way for bacteria
and small animals. Typical problems include the reverse flow of contaminated
surface water back into the spring, or use of the overflow pipe as a walkway
for small animals such as mice. This pipe must be screened and have a "free
fall" at the end of the pipe to the ground below.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
For more information, please call the appropriate party listed below.
For a complete list of fact sheets please request fact sheet WD-WSEB-15-2.
We would appreciate your comments and suggestions pertaining to this fact
sheet. Drinking water fact sheets are available through the DES web site
at: http://www.des.state.nh.us then select: publications,
fact sheets, water division, water supply.
Licensing Water Well Contractors, Well Construction Code
Water Well Board
29 Hazen Drive
Concord, NH 03301 | 271-3139 |
Water Quality Testing & Sample Containers
DES Laboratory Unit
PO Box 95, 29 Hazen Dr.
Concord, NH 03302-0095 | 271-3445 271-3446 |
Water Quality Analysis, Discussions of Treatment Options
Water Supply Engineering Bureau
PO Box 95, 29 Hazen Dr.
Concord, NH 03302-0095 |
271-3139 |
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